San Sebastián exudes festive colors. Red, yellow, white. Lengthy, wild, and dazzling, like its summer firework display that reflects the spirit of the Basque region. Colors so flavorful that you can taste them. This is not the sleepy little fisherman town it once was; it’s grown up and become a destination.
Coser to the edge of San Sebastian, there is an energy buzzing like a beehive ready to explode. Locals trying to make their way to work and normal life, giddy tourists taking selfies by the spectacular La Concha Bay, artists of all talent levels unfolding their untrained voices, spectacular sand sculptures on the beach, temporary tattoo hawkers on the walkway by the sea. Basque flags proudly waving in the salty air, with a bit of arrogance knowing we are all there to admire this place.
Beautiful beaches, cobblestone streets leading from the port, intertwined with shops and restaurants. We visit Museo De San Telmo, a tribute to Basque culture and more, housed in a jewel of a monastery is well worth the stop. We dutifully visit the many churches such as Basilica De Santa Maria Del Coro, and brave the rickety wooden funicular to climb to Monte Igueldo where you can get a throwback into the 60’s in a funky and weird amusement park all the while getting the best views of San Sebastian from the bay side. Finally, the moment we have been waiting for unfolds like a red velvet theatre curtain: Old Town wakes up. As evening arrives, you are led by the smells of grilled shrimp and octopus in the back of a narrow alley, the sulphury aroma of boiling eggs that will end up artfully shredded on a slab of creamy tuna paste, the sounds of clinking glasses being stacked up on a rack, the sounds of Spanish and Basque and laughter. And the show begins.
San Sebastian, Donostia in Basque, is the capital of small bites called Pintxos (pronounced pinchos). The pintxo bars are the stars, and we are the hungry audience. Food is everywhere, in the bars, restaurants that spill into the old streets, on narrow tables where you stop and taste, because pintxo bars are not for sitting. Taste, discuss it, and move on to the next bar to start all over again. Miniature works of art on baguettes slices decorated with an array of enticing food that you can eat in two bites. Bright and salty anchovies, perfectly grilled octopus, tender braised beef cheeks, melt-in-your-mouth foie gras, each bar has its specialty. Go in, see if something entices you and fight your way to the front to order as if you were claiming a winning lottery ticket. It’s part of the process. All accompanied by a glass of Txakoli, a local white sparkling wine poured from high up by the bartender in a melodramatic fashion or a Zurito, a cold half-pint of beer.
The main thoroughfare is a pedestrian street named 31 de Agosto located between two of the city’s oldest churches: the Church of San Vicente on one end and the Basilica of Santa María del Coro on the other. The street is named after the date 31 August 1813, the day when San Sebastián was set on fire during the Peninsular War (by Anglo‐Portuguese allied forces after taking the city from the French). It was the only street in the old town that survived the great fire that destroyed nearly all of San Sebastián in that raid. But don’t be afraid to go off the path and try other streets, the pintxos are good everywhere.
What we tried:
Gandarias-31 de Agosto, 23
One of the oldest places and the most crowded. Known for traditional pintxos. They also have a sit down restaurant that I would like to try on the next trip.
Txacolino- right across the street from Gandarias.
Went there first since Gandarias was so crowded and absolutely loved it. The food was great, the staff friendly and playful, they worked as if they actually liked each other. It was fun to eat and watch.
Bar Martinez-31 de Agosto, 13
Exceptionally good. Classic and very local. All pintxos we tried were excellent.
La Cuchara de San Telmo – Santa Korda, just off 31 de Agosto
We watched a long line of people form in front of this place like a religious pilgrimage. We decided to try it on the second night, right when they opened before the line got long. Be ready to yell your order across the bar, it gets loud quickly. Not the typical pintxos, more like small plates. Braised cheeks were ok but the best grilled octopus around!
Atari Gastroteka (across from the cathedral).
A very trendy place, everyone working here wears black and looks like a magazine cover. A bit pricey and a move from the classic pintxos. The clientele seemed to be thankful to be able to grab a spot. We ordered the Foie gras special, bathed in a white bean broth. Very good but more of a “gastro pub”, not the regular bar food that I prefer.
La Vina-31 de Agosto, 3
Known for its Basque cheesecake, people seemed to enjoy the extra-large, fluffy cake that comes in two servings. I had too many pintxos before eating this dessert, so I did not fully appreciate it. I will give it a second chance next time.
Don’t be fooled into thinking that San Sebastian is only pintxo bars. It has its array of good sit- down restaurants, several Michelin starred, as well as the traditional Cider house institution.
One of the oldest, Sidrería Petritegi, postcard-perfect, surrounded by green apple trees and barrels and barrels of cider. As you enter a large wooden hangar, you are led to the dining room where long rustic tables await to be shared with other patrons. A full baguette, local spicy sausage, bright red napkins, and bottle of cider mark your spot marking a starting point for what’s to come. The set menu of local foods is huge, go hungry. Opening with a large fluffy cod omelet, followed by the tastiest fish I have ever eaten, (and entire hake cooked in a butter garlicky sauce).
When you think you are done, an enormous Ribeye steak cooked to perfection is ceremoniously brought to the table. All the while, clients take their glasses and go taste cider directly from the large barrels in the cellar. I strike up a conversation with the friendly man sitting next to me and he tells me he is a local and eats here once a week. He never married, did not find a woman who could cook as well as this, he says with a grin.
And so it goes, San Sebastian, its food, its beauty, and its distinct signature, continues to amaze and entice visitors and locals alike. San Sebastian is not just a town in the Basque region; it’s an experience that will stay with you for a while. A perfume for the senses that will linger long after you return home. A taste you won’t be able to forget.
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