For over 25 years I spent every summer directing a summer abroad program in the south of France, in the city of Montpellier. I love this city and decided to update my inside tips on this beautiful place as well as share with you my simple pleasures, personal takes on what I love about Montpellier.
If this is your first time in France, there will be a lot of cultural differences to get accustomed to, sometimes things you don’t consider important but in France …they are!
Montpellier is a vibrant city known for its Mediterranean flavor, sunny pleasant weather and one of the top southern destinations for travelers. You can learn so much about Montpellier through guide books and websites, but here are some personal “cultural and budget survival skills” for Montpellier (and France in general).
1. Montpellier. The city’s uniqueness won’t take long to work its charm on you. Walking through downtown Montpellier is an activity of its own. Day or night, the Place de le Comédie is a jewel of architecture, with its old Opera house on one end, the modern Corum conference and concert hall on the other. In between, fountains and cobblestones adorn the “egg” as locals refer to the ever growing oval pedestrian area. Bars and restaurants open day and night, open-air markets are alive during the early mornings, and antiques are sold Sunday mornings on the Peyrou area, not far from the main square. People watching from a café is a major activity while street performers sing or dance their hearts out. Simple pleasure tip: you cannot beat the price or the quality of the kebabs around the train station. for under 10 euros you will get a complete meal and you will still have spare change for the coffee on the Comédie.
2. Bonjour. Remember this word. If you know anything about French culture, you know that the French take politeness to the utmost degree. Yes, we have all heard those false clichés that the French are rude to everyone. Not true! Once you arrive in France, you will quickly learn that the word “Bonjour” will open many doors for you. No respectable French person would think of walking into the boulangerie to pick up their daily baguette without first greeting the clerk, the baker and anyone else that is present in the room. Don’t panic, and don’t go overboard by greeting everyone individually. One simple “bonjour” will suffice to greet the entire group. When buying a train ticket, when buying stamps, at the cash register of the local supermarket, always say “Bonjour” and you will be greeted with a smile and great service.
3. The boulangerie and patisserie. There is a difference between the two. The boulangerie is where you get your fresh baguette, the patisserie is for deserts. However, sometimes the lines between the two blur. French people buy and eat bread every single day. It’s almost a religion. You can spend hours debating which boulangerie is best, if you like your bread “bien cuit“ which means baked a little longer with a crustier top or less baked and fluffy on the inside. However, when you are serious about your deserts, you head over to a patisserie. The patissier is proud of his pastry skills and has mastered the art of sweets and baked goods. Save some of your calories and extra Euros to indulge in a serious patisserie, you won’t regret it! Budget tip: During the week, go to the local boulangerie to buy the lunch special, normally a generously stuffed sandwich, a drink and a desert for a few Euros. Simple pleasure tip: my favorite patisserie in Montpellier is Scholler’s. It is a bit out of the way but worth the trip. Save your calories for a decadent “Royal” with fluffy layers of chocolate atop a crispy meringue layer…all wrapped in an elegant gift box tied by a pink ribbon. Heaven!
4. Transportation. In Montpellier, public transportation is a notch above all others. There are numerous tramway lines and bus lines that can transport you virtually anywhere in and out of the city, including the nearby beaches. The service called TAM, has an interactive website where you can put your departure and destination so the best route available pops up. http://www.tam-voyages.com/index.asp Be sure to punch your ticket in the machine before or on board when entering or be prepared to pay a hefty fine if you get caught without a stamped ticket. Don’t take a chance, this is checked often! For those of you who are more physical, rent a city bike. This is very inexpensive and a fun way to get to know the city. Budget tip: Single bus/tram tickets cost (at the time of this writing) 1.60 Euro each but a book of ten costs 10 Euros, saving you some money.
5. Food. I think it’s redundant to emphasize the importance of food in everyday French life. With influences from all over the world, Montpellier is a gastronome’s delight. From Argentinian empanadas, to vegetarian restaurants, to open air markets, to Michelin stared restaurants, Montpellier has it all.
Culturally, there are certain rules that are important in France and must be respected. First of all, never start your meal until everyone at your table has been served. Before the meal starts, wish everyone “bon appetit!”. You will not be offered bread or butter before your meal, it is only served with the meal itself. Salad is served after the main course or with the cheese course if it is a casual place. And coffee is not an accompaniment to desert, it is always served at the very end often accompanied by a little chocolate. Beverages with your meal should be wine or water, sodas are not usually served with a meal. Lastly, the bill will never be brought to you automatically, it is considered rude to have a waiter bring this to you before you ask. Tips are always included but it is customary to leave the extra change for good service. Budget tip: opt for the daily “menu”, served weekdays, a two or three course special at a great price and always posted outside the restaurant. Simple pleasure tip: at this time my favorite restaurant is “L’artichaut”, a delightful restaurant that has a handwritten menu on blackboard that changes daily. The ingredients are fresh, the staff is friendly and the Michelin guide has included this place in its guide of best tables at a good price.
6. Festivals. Spring and summer in France signals a time for festivals and Montpellier is no exception. The International Music and Dance festival, the Tango festival, the Radio France festival the Estivales, are just a few of the offerings during the warmer months. The best way to prepare your schedule is to check the Montpellier tourist office site: http://www.montpellier-france.com
7. La mer! The geographical situation of Montpellier makes it a beach lover’s paradise. While you can indulge in the medieval streets of the city that will take you to boutiques, points of interest and second-hand shops galore, the Mediterranean beaches are just a bus or tram ride away. The two closest areas are Palavas-les-Flots, a quaint beach town that hosts concerts, restaurants and water-related activities and Carnon, a mostly white-sand beach for the laid back crowds. In either beach location, there are cultural peculiarities. Most people are surprised that hot coffee and tea are sold by vendors on the beach. Chouchous are candy coated peanuts and a must try for everyone is the beignet, an enormous dumpling filled with either chocolate, fruit preserves or Nutella (my favorite)! Simple pleasures: There are many vendors yelling out their products but I always wait for the Loulou vendor, he has been selling these calorie-laden wonders for as long as I can remember and they are always fresh and delicious.
8. Returning home.
After visiting Montpellier and its surrounding area you will want to share your experience by bringing back souvenirs. What can you bring? My number one favorite is the famous sea salt of Camargue. The Fleur de Sel is particularly appreciated. This is the first salt that is still gathered by hand on the pink salt lakes of Aigues Mortes (dead water in Occitan language). You can also bring back the delicious marzipan sweets “Calissons” or the licorice candies “Grisettes de Montpellier“. If you have room in your suitcase, don’t forget to bring a bottle or two of the famous wines of the region, you can pour a glass at home and think back of that beautiful city of Montpellier!
Bon voyage!