I once visited Athens for 24 hours. Although that sounds improbable, it happened. My husband and I were invited to a wedding in Greece and it was a no brainer to accept. After dropping off our bags at the hotel, we headed directly to the number one attraction, the breathtaking Acropolis of Athens. Located on a rocky boulder towering the city, it contains the remains of several ancient buildings, including The Parthenon. Dedicated to the patroness of Athens, the beloved Athena, the construction of the temple started in 447 BC and still stands today! Considered the most important surviving building of Classical Greece, it is regarded as the zenith of the Doric order. Crowds lined all around (this was 2018, pre-Covid) but one could still find plenty of elbow-room facing the enormity of the structure and the depth of its history. From the very top, the view of Athens was striking. We continued our visit with a guided mythical tour of the Sanctuary of Zeus, followed by Hadrian’s Arch, commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian and finally, the Panathenaic Stadium, birthplace of modern Olympic Games.
My euphoric post-flight energy was starting to wane, and I started to feel the familiar drowsiness of jet-lag. We were about to visit the Acropolis Museum, when my phone rang. It was not good news. A family emergency had me boarding the first flight back home. Weeks after all was settled and back to normal, I could not forget Greece and all of its possibilities. The few hours experiencing the thousand-year-old ruins still standing proudly, the taste of the Mediterranean street food, the mythical tales in the air, lingered like an enticing appetizer. I knew one day I would go back and finish my trip.
“As for every trip, and to simplify the experience, I prepare ahead researching with the top attractions, restaurants (from cheap eats to high-end meals) and side trips not to be missed. But oftentimes, it’s the unexpected and unplanned that are the most enjoyable.”
ARRIVAL AND SAFETY THROUGH COVID TIMES.
Finally, three years, three flights, and 22 hours of Covid-safe travel restrictions later, I was landing in Athens once again. Covid has changed the world of travel. Safety measures in Greece are very strict. After all, their main source of income is through tourism, and they want to make sure they can stay open without another lock down. Every restaurant, bar, hotel, or museum asks to see your vaccine card and id. Not a negative test or proof of recovery but a fully vaccinated certificate (The CDC card was fine). You must wear a mask indoors (unless actively eating or drinking) but outdoors is not mandatory although many wore masks on the streets. Each hotel has a list of its safety measures and each restaurant had disinfectant gel on the table. Safety is serious business here.
Travel note: the Athens airport is easy to maneuver. You can take a taxi outside with a set fee into the city of 35 Euros or be more adventurous and take a direct subway from the airport terminal that takes you into central Athens in about 30 minutes (9 Euros). Because Athens’s traffic is known to be congested, and since we travel carry-on for more freedom, we decided on the most direct way and headed to the subway entrance. Be aware that the signs will say “trains” and not subway.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
Colorful instruments 
Traditional costumes 
Changing of the guards in front the Parliament building
As we emerged from the subway station of Syntagma Square, the central spot in Athens, we faced Greek-blue skies (I do believe this is an official color here), a bustling but peaceful political demonstration, and a myriad of musicians and dancers eager to welcome the fresh tourists arriving into their city. Stands, selling typical costumes and musical instruments, show off the colorful culture. Across the street is the Parliament building where tourists rush every hour on the hour to take pictures of the changing of the guards in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Modern architecture and digs underneath mix at the museum 
A room with a view
A key detail when selecting a hotel for a short stay is the location. Always choose a central spot close to subway stations and within walking distance to attractions to save precious time. We walked the four blocks from the station and dropped off our bags. Athens is a walking town, so we immediately start off with a visit of the Acropolis Museum (the stopping point from three years prior). The building is modern and streamlined and full of artifacts recovered from all over the country. The crowning glory is its top floor where you reach the Parthenon Gallery. This gallery has been set up as a modern replica of the Parthenon with columns exactly aligned as the old ruins, decorated with the actual portion of the incomplete frieze of the Elgin Marbles, with the position of the missing sections clearly marked. The British Museum is still in possession of the rest of the marbles, and it’s obvious that Athens wants them back. Through the large window bay, one can find a magnificent view of the actual Parthenon.
CAN WE SAY PHOTO OPS EVERYWHERE?
The next stop is Plaka, probably the best-known neighborhood around. The oldest house in Athens is found here as well as restaurants, cafes, and the must-have souvenir shops. Since lunch time was approaching, we stopped at The Old Tavern of Psara’s, the most instagramed idyllic place around. The tables are set up on whitewashed steps, the tablecloths are red and white checkered, the waiters are welcoming. The food is good, comforting, nothing too complicated after a long flight.
THE GREEKS INVENTED FRAPPE COFFEE?
I learn something new on every trip. However, this one really surprised me. As most delicious things to eat or drink are invented by mistake, the frappé (or iced coffee) is one of them. In 1957 Dimitris Vakondios, a representative of Nescafé, the instant coffee, mixed cold water to make his coffee since he had no access to hot water. The freddo espresso, as it is also known, was born. The café culture is big in Greece and at all hours of the day you can see the locals and tourists on sunny terraces, sipping this delicious cold coffee, topped with a creamy dollop of whipped milk.
One of the beautiful streets in Anafiotika 
Street art
After lunch we venture northeast of Plaka and happen upon the neighborhood of Anafiotika. The houses are all white plaster, some with blue accents, flowering pots everywhere. The tiny pathways are so narrow, that at times, you need to walk one behind the other. As we climb into the intimacy of this area, I feel somehow we are intruding in their private living space. Obviously, others have found this treasure of a spot, a few tourists are already there taking the expected selfies or just taking in the spectacular view from the very top. Suddenly, on a side street, there is a change in décor, the white wash disappears under graffiti. The murals are signed and carefully painted, this is truly art in the making. . Greece likes its graffiti art, and you can also find it in Psiri, another area not to be missed.
IT’S 5 OCLOCK SOMEWHERE.
The sun is coming down and we are in need of a break. We decide to look for Brettos, a bar that has been recommended by a Greece-savvy friend. The tiny space only takes 16 people at a time (Covid rules). The main bar is a multicolored light show, a kaleidoscope of bottles cleverly lit from behind the wall. This is the oldest distillery in town and the copper vehicles line the opposite wall. Their specialty is Ouzo but since I am not a fan, I opt for the Bretto Brandy Mojito, a winner in my book. Tourists gather outside, taking photos of the colorful entrance while we pretend we are locals and lose ourselves in the coziness of the place.
THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET IS ALL IT’S CRACKED UP TO BE.
Dinner tonight is at Nolan, (mid-price range). With an unpretentious store front, you can walk by and miss it, as we did, but ask anyone around and they will point to the place-it has a following. Inside, the restaurant is eclectic, modern, with an urban-cool bistro atmosphere. The chef ‘s father is Greek, his mother Japanese, hence his Asian-Greek fusion cuisine. It’s recommended by the Michelin guide as a Bib Gourmand (that means no star yet but an affordable up-and-coming place). A gem of a find, featuring shared plates of flavor sensation. We opt to share four plates for two people, a perfect amount. The ceviche fricassée comes with an amazing cilantro broth, the squid dish over soba noodles is spectacular, the staff is very friendly and accommodating. The wine, an excellent Assyrtiko, a Greek white wine ( from the island of Santorini) reminds me of a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. I have become a great fan of this wine.
Grande Bretagne Rooftop Bar- before our trip I tried, to no avail, to make reservations for dinner at this restaurant. It wasn’t the food that attracted me but its reputation for having one of the best night-time roof top views of the Parthenon. We walked into the hotel and took the elevator to the roof top bar. The restaurant and bar are next to each other, and I get to experience the view for the price of a lychee martini (one of the best I have had). It’s expensive as expected and it’s worth the show.
GLADIATORS ARE REAL.
Day two takes us to the Monastiraki area, a loud, lively place with a large market. The busy square is surrounded by gyro stands, souvlaki restaurants, sellers of every trinket you will never need. Row after row of stores display their 10-Euro Gucci bags, Rolex knock offs, and all things made of plastic. As we walk around, we see the quaint and kitschy cafés, over decorated and charming. We stop for lunch at a local taverna (casual restaurant) and order a typical Greek gyro plate. As the dish is served, I am at a loss for words, Greek portions are very generous! Casually, a Gladiator in full gear sits at the next table for his lunch break and orders what seems to be his usual, a gyro and coke. However, he orders an appetizer portion, and smiles at my overloaded plate. I have made eye contact with a gladiator.
The afternoon is spent walking around and taking in the sights. More cafés decorated over the top with Halloween themes, street musicians, the surprising sight of tour groups following their flag-waiving guide. Cruise ships are back in business. We have done our cultural experiences, museums, ruins and now it’s time to people watch and relax.
THE HYTRA EXPERIENCE
I have been impatiently waiting for dinner. A one-star Michelin Restaurant, and Fair Kitchen Winner, headed by Executive Chef Tassos Mantis, Hytra serves modern Greek food, an experience like no other. Located atop the Onassis Cultural Center in an area that caters to business hotels, automobile repair shops, and the ever present “dancing girls” bars with neon signs, this high-end restaurant seems oddly placed. Our reservations are at 7:00 pm and the doors do not open until then. The guy at the front door, dressed in black and wearing his bouncer earpiece , makes sure of this. First, you must pass the required check of vaccinations cards and id and then you are escorted to the elevator which takes you to the 6th floor. When the doors open, you are greeted by the staff, professional, smiling, all dressed in black, it seems to be the theme. The bar is the first thing you see, elegant and inviting, but empty. Perhaps if they would let customers in early, they would gladly wait for their table while sipping one of the specialty cocktails. The dining room is a medium-sized room with large windows, small table lights, with the feel of a night club. Far away in the background, the ever-present Parthenon, all lit up in its evening glory. The bare tables, to my disappointment, have no tablecloths, no silverware, just the tiny lights. I am conventional when it comes to formal restaurants, the setting is an important detail and I hope this evening won’t be disappointing.
Because we wanted to order the eight-piece tasting menu with wine pairing, we don’t order a before dinner drink. This might be a mistake because the first wine does not come until the third course.
Our fist plate is served, and the description by the waiter is much larger than what we are about to eat. On the dark rectangular dish is a small, salted cracker sandwich, the size of a mini-Oreo, accompanied by a sprig of rosemary. We look at each other quizzingly and my husband asks, “do you think this is an amuse bouche or an actual course?”. I had prepared by reading the reviews for the restaurant and was expecting the very small portions. I tell him it is the first course.
We take it with our fingers, we still don’t have any utensils, and we can’t hide our reaction. The lacelike crackers, delicate and thin, hide an olive oil sorbet. The flavor is incredible, the presentation a work of art. The second course comes, amberjack, still tiny but oh so flavorful, beautiful and delicious , with a medley of oysters, apricot (yes!) and loquat. Finally, we are given utensils and a glass, which makes me happy with expectation. The course is served in a bird’s nest and is a trio of scallops with a rich and savory crawfish cream. Paired with a Greek Chardonnay, the intention might be to match the wine the sauce. I love the wine but feel the scallops need a wine with a little more acidity. I am not being a snob about it but this experience makes you rethink every sip and bite.
The next course is a medley of mushrooms and potato cream served with an Assyrtiko, the wine I have become an avid fan of since we have arrived. The flavor is refreshing citrus, sometimes a bit of passion fruit, and a tiny bit of bubbles. Delicious. The waiter asks my opinion, and I am truthful. I love both wines but would have paired them in opposite sequence. I know the Chardonnay is a more expensive wine, but my heart goes for the Assyrtiko. My husband explains that I am in the wine tasting business, and the waiter, who seems genuinely interested by all this, brings us two extra glasses. Nice touch.
The rest of the meal is an intricate and well-choreographed dance of flavors, like opening one gift after another. Surprisingly, after a Retsina (think pine and lime flavor) is served with lamb, I start to think that the wines might not be wrongly paired after all, the point is to bypass the usual pairing and allow yourself to enter into a different taste orbit. After the second (yes, there were two!) desert brings an end to the meal, we feel we just had a humbling gastronomic experience. I understand why the tables and the venue are unadorned, why the settings and glasses did not come until the meal was under way, it is all calculated so no distractions can blur our senses. The food is the star of the show. I think about some of the flavors we have just experienced in one meal: olive oil, loquat, chamomile, umeboshi (brined Japanese plums), basil, vadouvan (French curry powder), unripe figs, beef garum (fermented to give intense umami flavor), lemon verbena……As we leave the restaurant in blissful (and full) contentment, I realize, this is the first time I did not stop to take photos of the food. I was overtaken by the marvelous Hytra experience.
If you want to see some of the beautiful dishes served and learn more about the Chef’s modern cooking philosophy and fair kitchen spirit, take a look at this short video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZz41HL9HgM
ONE LAST STROLL….
Before we get ready for our next destination, the island of Rhodes, we stroll one more time around the city and think about how much we have absorbed in just a short time. Two days searching and experiencing great culture and food. And a Gladiator to boot!
